<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Flyball Training &#8211; Lesson 1</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/</link>
	<description>i-Flyball</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 08 Dec 2011 13:35:10 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1310</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2009 18:23:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1310</guid>
		<description>Lynda,

I also own three small aussies. (North American Shephersd/ Miniature Australian Shepherds).
I agree, it could be the box. It could be that she has such a GREAT swimmer&#039;s turn that evenly distributes her total body weight among all four of her feet while in contact with the triggering mechanism that there is not enough &quot;pressure&quot; to trigger it.

What to do?

You may have to make the trigger more &quot;sensitive&quot;. I don&#039;t know what kind of box you have but, nearly all of them can be adjusted. It may involve changing a few parts such as the spring strength or a smaller cocking mechanism. Flyball boxes are notorious for each of their &quot;unique&quot; designs and it&#039;s hard to find any uniformity among them. BUT, the parts can usually be found at a hardware store.

Are you a &quot;tinkerer&quot; or know somebody who does? Do you know who designed and built your flyball box? Box makers are usually very helpful when it comes to changing designs to accomodate a specific triggering problem.

How far does the pedal have to travel before it triggers the releasing mechanism? We have a &quot;loaded&quot; pedal and so it only needs to travel about 1/4 of an inch before the firing mechanism fires.
.
Look at the holes as well. Some teams like deep holes. My team likes a smaller hole with at least two thirds of the ball sticking out. That &quot;design&quot; may give your boxloader some headaches but, the dogs love it because the hammer only needs a very light &quot;tap&quot; to catapault the ball out of the hole. Easy on the dog who may have a light touch.

These are just a few ideas. Start asking questions at tournaments and you’ll learn a lot and maybe get someone to start tinkering with your box if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lynda,</p>
<p>I also own three small aussies. (North American Shephersd/ Miniature Australian Shepherds).<br />
I agree, it could be the box. It could be that she has such a GREAT swimmer&#8217;s turn that evenly distributes her total body weight among all four of her feet while in contact with the triggering mechanism that there is not enough &#8220;pressure&#8221; to trigger it.</p>
<p>What to do?</p>
<p>You may have to make the trigger more &#8220;sensitive&#8221;. I don&#8217;t know what kind of box you have but, nearly all of them can be adjusted. It may involve changing a few parts such as the spring strength or a smaller cocking mechanism. Flyball boxes are notorious for each of their &#8220;unique&#8221; designs and it&#8217;s hard to find any uniformity among them. BUT, the parts can usually be found at a hardware store.</p>
<p>Are you a &#8220;tinkerer&#8221; or know somebody who does? Do you know who designed and built your flyball box? Box makers are usually very helpful when it comes to changing designs to accomodate a specific triggering problem.</p>
<p>How far does the pedal have to travel before it triggers the releasing mechanism? We have a &#8220;loaded&#8221; pedal and so it only needs to travel about 1/4 of an inch before the firing mechanism fires.<br />
.<br />
Look at the holes as well. Some teams like deep holes. My team likes a smaller hole with at least two thirds of the ball sticking out. That &#8220;design&#8221; may give your boxloader some headaches but, the dogs love it because the hammer only needs a very light &#8220;tap&#8221; to catapault the ball out of the hole. Easy on the dog who may have a light touch.</p>
<p>These are just a few ideas. Start asking questions at tournaments and you’ll learn a lot and maybe get someone to start tinkering with your box if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Lynda Redman</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1309</link>
		<dc:creator>Lynda Redman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Mar 2009 17:33:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1309</guid>
		<description>Hi
I have a small Aussie who is doing a great swimmers turn, but she can&#039;t trigger the ball because of her weight.  Is it a box problem or is there something I can do.
Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi<br />
I have a small Aussie who is doing a great swimmers turn, but she can&#8217;t trigger the ball because of her weight.  Is it a box problem or is there something I can do.<br />
Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Larry</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1291</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 05:03:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1291</guid>
		<description>I would play with both but individually for now.  If you can get someone to hold your dog to do restrained recalls to the tug that&#039;s what I would work on.  Really make this a fun game.  Later you can try adding the ball to this exercise by throwing the ball out doing dead ball retrieves to the tug.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would play with both but individually for now.  If you can get someone to hold your dog to do restrained recalls to the tug that&#8217;s what I would work on.  Really make this a fun game.  Later you can try adding the ball to this exercise by throwing the ball out doing dead ball retrieves to the tug.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bridget</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1290</link>
		<dc:creator>Bridget</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2008 03:24:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1290</guid>
		<description>During the period that I am trying to get the dog interested in a tug, should I not play ball with them at all.  So if it takes two weeks....still no ball playing?  I also bought a tug that holds treats and hoping that helps...they are very food motivated!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>During the period that I am trying to get the dog interested in a tug, should I not play ball with them at all.  So if it takes two weeks&#8230;.still no ball playing?  I also bought a tug that holds treats and hoping that helps&#8230;they are very food motivated!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Larry</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1289</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 05:14:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1289</guid>
		<description>It’s somewhat like trying to retrain a box turn after the dog’s has been running a while.  It will take some persistence but the key is making it fun for the dog. It may take some time but just keep working at it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It’s somewhat like trying to retrain a box turn after the dog’s has been running a while.  It will take some persistence but the key is making it fun for the dog. It may take some time but just keep working at it.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bridget</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1288</link>
		<dc:creator>Bridget</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 02:07:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1288</guid>
		<description>Any pointers on how to get a not so tug motivated dog to love it?   Should I just keep up with trying to make it interesting?  Funny thing is when they were pups they loved it...I just didn&#039;t do it with them very often...now I can hardly get them to do it!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Any pointers on how to get a not so tug motivated dog to love it?   Should I just keep up with trying to make it interesting?  Funny thing is when they were pups they loved it&#8230;I just didn&#8217;t do it with them very often&#8230;now I can hardly get them to do it!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Larry</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1287</link>
		<dc:creator>Larry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 23:47:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1287</guid>
		<description>The only thing that I would say about squeeky balls is they may be a distraction to other dogs.  I know that many people use balls as motivators and one of my older dog&#039;s uses a ball.  However, I find them to be a problem at times.  I guess I&#039;ll just leave it at that.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The only thing that I would say about squeeky balls is they may be a distraction to other dogs.  I know that many people use balls as motivators and one of my older dog&#8217;s uses a ball.  However, I find them to be a problem at times.  I guess I&#8217;ll just leave it at that.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bridget</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-1286</link>
		<dc:creator>Bridget</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 23:36:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-1286</guid>
		<description>I have two dogs (shepherds) that I really never played tug with.  They are sometimes interested and other times not.  They really love squeeky balls.  Are these bad motivators?  Is it imperative to get them to be tug motivated?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have two dogs (shepherds) that I really never played tug with.  They are sometimes interested and other times not.  They really love squeeky balls.  Are these bad motivators?  Is it imperative to get them to be tug motivated?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: cb</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-101</link>
		<dc:creator>cb</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:14:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-101</guid>
		<description>To add to Larry&#039;s lesson.  When the dog is at the &quot;learning to respond to the Motivator&quot; level (and continuing throughout his/her flyball career)we do something called the toy exchange game.  Once you have them tugging then give them several
tugs, mix in a ball and a frisbee and/or other favorite toy.  Play with each toy, get the dog crazy about the toy, then drop it and move to the next toy, get them crazy for that toy, then move to the next and then the next.  this helps the dog learn that it is not the toy.... but you attached to the toy that makes it wonderful.  This is useful for really ball motivated dogs.  You do not want a dog that considers the ball the prize... cause when they hit the box and get their ball it&#039;s game over.  There is no drive to return to you.  You want them to be driven to return to get some really big time fun play.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To add to Larry&#8217;s lesson.  When the dog is at the &#8220;learning to respond to the Motivator&#8221; level (and continuing throughout his/her flyball career)we do something called the toy exchange game.  Once you have them tugging then give them several<br />
tugs, mix in a ball and a frisbee and/or other favorite toy.  Play with each toy, get the dog crazy about the toy, then drop it and move to the next toy, get them crazy for that toy, then move to the next and then the next.  this helps the dog learn that it is not the toy&#8230;. but you attached to the toy that makes it wonderful.  This is useful for really ball motivated dogs.  You do not want a dog that considers the ball the prize&#8230; cause when they hit the box and get their ball it&#8217;s game over.  There is no drive to return to you.  You want them to be driven to return to get some really big time fun play.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: cb</title>
		<link>http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/comment-page-1/#comment-92</link>
		<dc:creator>cb</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Jul 2007 21:13:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.flyballblog.com/lesson-1/#comment-92</guid>
		<description>I would add that if you are introducing a new &quot;step&quot; or challenge and the dog is starting to get it, but then starts to fall apart or lose interest, back up to the last step that is well mastered, execute that well and end the play.  I never want to end a training session with the dog feeling confused, frustrated or that I am disappointed in him/her.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would add that if you are introducing a new &#8220;step&#8221; or challenge and the dog is starting to get it, but then starts to fall apart or lose interest, back up to the last step that is well mastered, execute that well and end the play.  I never want to end a training session with the dog feeling confused, frustrated or that I am disappointed in him/her.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

