Flyball Training - Lesson 3

It is very important not to proceed to this lesson until your dog has completed and is performing the training requirements from lessons 1 and 2. Your dogs should now be enjoying the recall, ball, and the motivator. They should be driving to you as hard as possible every time, grabbing onto the motivator and not letting go until you are ready to end the game. If your dog is at this stage you are ready to move on to this lesson. If not, keep working on the games in the last lesson until you achieve the drive you need from your dog.

There are many schools of thought on jump training and below I offer two methods. Some people think that you should just let the dog, no matter the size of the dog, find their own stride. Others say that for smaller dogs you should position the distance between the jumps so that the dog can single stride the jumps and then increase the distance between the jumps over a period of time. I have tried both methods with smaller dogs and both methods seem to work equally well. I tend to lean toward the former method by just letting the dog find their own stride.

Large Dog Stride and Jump Training

Most large dogs will develop striding through the jumps on there own, but if you are training a small dog you may want to use the Small Dog Stride and Jump Training, below. However, if you know they will never be able to single stride the jumps, then just use this section.

1. Use baby gates for this exercise by placing the gates parallel to each other with the jump in between. Start with one jump by having someone hold the dog on one side of the jump and recall the dog over it. Use your motivator as a reward. Do not move on to the step 2 until the dog is running through the single jump.

2. Add a second jump and gating and proceed as above adding successive jumps as the dog is ready. If you notice a problem, go back to a point where the dog was successful and proceed from there. Only proceed to the next jump if the dog is ready. The gating should be in place to insure the dog goes over the jumps. This is to insure the dog doesn’t fail during these exercises.

Small Dog Stride and Jump Training

If you feel confident that your small dog should be able to single stride the jumps then continue with this lesson. However, if you know that the dog will not be able to single stride the jumps go back and use the Large Dog Stride and Jump Training above.

1. Use baby gates for this exercise by placing the gates parallel to each other with the jump in between. Start with one jump having someone hold the dog on one side of the jump and recall the dog over it. Use your motivator as a reward. Do not move on to the step 2 until the dog is running through the single jump.

2. Now mark a starting point and have someone, a spotter, watch your dog from the side doing a recall (without the jump). A video camera may be helpful with this step. Have a spotter mark the point where your dog has finished three strides. Set your first jump between the gating two to three feet after that point. Now recall the dog from the starting point through the jump. The dog’s striding shouldn’t change as they run through the jump. It should look as smooth as a recall with no jumps. Once you notice a consistent recall through one jump you can add a second one.

3. It’s now time to add a second jump but it must be the proper distance away to make sure the dog only takes one stride between the first and second jump. Again this may be a good time to use a video camera to watch where the dog lands and takes a stride after the first jump.

Once the distance has been established, add additional gating and the second jump about one or two feet from the point the dog’s hind legs take off for his next stride. Again, the striding should look just as smooth as a recall with no jumps. Then measure the distance between the two jumps and you will know where to add your third and fourth jumps to the sequence.

Don’t add more jumps until you see the dog striding consistently. Keep your sessions short; only do five or six recalls and then end the session.

Over subsequent training sessions, continue step 3 until the dog is jumping the required distance of 10 feet. This is accomplished by recording the jump placement distance and increasing the distance with each session being mindful of the dog’s stride. The stride of the dog should look as smooth through the jumps as a recall with no jumps. The gating should be in place to insure the dog goes over the jumps, and it will insure the dog doesn’t fail during these exercises.

Chute Training

Continue training from lesson 2 chute training by having the dog retrieve the ball from the chute, but rise the chute to the second highest position (see adjustable chute plans). Also, by this time you should know which direction your dog will turn so move the ball position to the correct side of the chute. Make sure that the small chute jump or flyball jump is placed in front of the chute. Start using the words “hit it” when you send the dog to the chute for the ball. Use your motivator as a reward or continue tugging on the ball if necessary. You will want your dog to do this in a very fast fluid motion. Complete this step before proceeding to the next lesson and be sure that the dog knows the “hit it” command and what it means.

Note: Use self adhesive Velcro for the ball positions on the chute. For a chute supply list and photos see links on the Flyball Training Manual page.

Training Manual Information

This is a series of articles that I will post about Flyball training. I would ask that you please try to keep your comments to the specific topic of the each article, for there will be many others. You can see a high level outline of the topic to be covered in future post by viewing the Training Manual. Keeping the comments specific to each article will help future readers.

Please keep in mind that there are numerous methods in use but these are the ones that I use and they are some that work for me. If you have others that you would like to share, please post your comments.

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6 comments ↓

#1 Robbie on 08.03.07 at 10:44 am

Good lesson, it’s nice that you differentiated between
large and small dogs, because training the two really
is different. One factor that is important to consider
is how far you should release your dog from the first
jump. They need to have enough running room to
get up enough speed to single stride. This is especially
true of small dogs and tall skinny dogs. You might have
to give a smaller dog 25 feet or more to build up enough
speed to single stride.

Also, we always train our youngsters using chase
recalls. We recall a veteran dog first, then put the
puppy right on their tail. The vet teaches the pup.

#2 cb on 08.03.07 at 5:22 pm

We do the chase recall as well, but I have to be very careful with that game. For a dog with a strong chase drive I find myself having a worse time later with cross over issues.. that is another can of worms and can be a bear to train out.
Also, make sure those growth plates are closed on that puppy before doing serious repetitive jumping.

#3 LW on 08.04.07 at 9:46 pm

First off, thank you so much for your blog! I have enjoyed the viewpoints, ideas, discussions and training information.

I have a question . . . I’ve heard some folks say with the stride training for little dogs to do the gradual distancing with the jumps. Others have said to leave the jumps spaced at 10 ft and as the dog gains confidence, they will single stride. Have you (or any others) had experience with both methods? What are the pros and cons of each? Does it just depend on the dog?

I’m especially interested because I have a little dog (who is too young for jumps right now) but am hopeful will be able to single stride. Some of my team members are more along the thought to leave the jumps spaced at 10ft, but I would like to hear others input as well.

My other flyball dogs are “large” so we’ve never had an issue with striding before.

Thank you again.

#4 Larry on 08.05.07 at 11:22 am

Like I said in my lesson, I have tried both methods with smaller dogs but as far as which one is better I can’t say. With my first Jack Russell I just used the jumps set at 10 feet apart. He started out double stepping between jumps but as he gained confidence over about a year racing he just started single jumping. He still double steps sometime on the way back from the box. My other Jack was trained using the small dog method that I explain and he single jumps all jumps going and coming from the box, however, he is a little bit larger Jack from my first and likely would have singled the jumps anyway. I’m not sure what you can take from this.

I really think it depends on the dog and how much motivation they have from the start so I think you should really concentrated on lesson 1 and 2. I have seen very small dogs single stride the jumps but they were very high drive, highly motivated dogs so I think that is more of the key than anything else. When I first started training I didn’t work on motivation as much as I now know I should have.

Good luck and take your time!

#5 bcollie on 08.09.07 at 12:07 pm

I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but what’s the purpose of changing the angle of the chute? Also I couldn’t tell from the plans how the chute is attached on the back . . . do you use pegs?

I’ve really enjoyed your training tips!
Thanks

#6 Larry on 08.09.07 at 3:30 pm

Changing the angle of the chute and dropping the ball position in later lessons will start the dog on its way to a swimmers turn.

Check out this PDF document at the link below, which shows detailed pictures of the chute and a supply list:

http://www.i-flyball.com/shoot/doc/supplies-pics.pdf

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